Diesel FW24 by Glenn Martens

The Diesel fashion shows under the direction of Glenn Martens are known for their grandiose shows.

For spring 2023, the designer's show broke the Guinness World Record for the largest inflatable sculptures ever made, attracting nearly 5,000 people.

The fall 2023 presentation saw models parade around a massive pile of 200,000 Diesel condoms, and the spring 2024 show turned into a full-on rave for 7,000 attendees.

This Wednesday in Milan, Martens' fall 2024 production continued to build on the brand's high-profile identity, broadcasting a massive Zoom call with 1,000 participants on the walls of its catwalk. “They were watching while being observed,” noted the brand, which also livestreamed the styling, casting, workshops and runway set-up 24 hours a day on its website and Instagram account during the week preceding the event. This is what we call transparency.

Martens envisioned the show as “a unique, voyeuristic and interactive experience.”

On the runway, her brand-transforming signatures (which saw a 13.1% increase in sales last year) became more mature without sacrificing their impactful personality. Denim and jersey textiles, two vital pillars of the Diesel wardrobe, received new bonded structures, coating treatments and worn finishes, while the designer experimented with two-dimensional manipulations on fluffy materials.

Floral-leopard prints commanded jersey ensembles; distressed tops sported sheer sections meant to mimic post-party sweat lines, and faux fur made coats, puffer jackets, ribbed knits and skirts more luxurious in kaleidoscopic colors.

Meanwhile, formal outfits, devoid of classic tailoring, favored denim and leather textiles, and statement pieces were covered in screenshots of Diesel's coded Zoom call. Here, Martens has cleverly brought the brand's fans to the forefront with a refreshingly inclusive strategy, reinforcing their undying frenzy for next season.