Glenn Martens, the new face of Maison Margiela

The fashion world has a new headliner. Belgian designer Glenn Martens has officially taken over as artistic director of Maison Margiela, succeeding the illustrious John Galliano, who left the house in December 2024 after ten memorable years. A historic handover, heralding a new era for the brand founded by Martin Margiela.

The OTB Group, owner of the house, made the appointment official on January 29, 2025. Martens, already recognized for his groundbreaking work at Y/Project and Diesel, joins a house that has always championed deconstruction, reinterpretation, and a forward-thinking approach to fashion. His arrival is closely watched by the industry, eager to discover his vision for one of the most conceptual houses in the fashion world today.

A creator shaped by experimentation

Glenn Martens is far from unknown in the fashion world. Born in 1983 in Bruges, he began studying interior design before turning to fashion and attending the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. He learned his trade in Jean Paul Gaultier's menswear studio before joining Y/Project, where he imposed a bold aesthetic, combining asymmetrical cuts and the twisting of dress codes.

In 2017, he won the prestigious ANDAM Prize, confirming his status as a designer to watch. But it was at Diesel that he particularly distinguished himself, giving the brand a contemporary feel and a unique conceptual dimension. His work on denim, his offbeat marketing approach, and his spectacular staging—such as his runway show amidst 200,000 boxes of condoms—made a lasting impression.

If this appointment seems natural, it's because Martens shares a similar approach with Martin Margiela, the house's founder. Like him, he graduated from the Royal Academy of Antwerp and maintains a fascination with deconstruction and the subversion of fashion codes. His experience at Y/Project prepared him to sublimate the ambivalence between classicism and experimentation, a playing field he will be able to fully exploit at Margiela.

Especially since the Margiela house has remained faithful to its conceptual heritage under the direction of John Galliano, who has enriched the brand's universe with his baroque and theatrical inspirations. Martens thus inherits a unique heritage, where innovation reigns supreme.

The challenge is daunting. Glenn Martens will not only have to preserve Maison Margiela's experimental essence, but also adapt it to the changes in contemporary luxury. The industry is already wondering: will he maintain the house's couture aura, or will he inject a more streetwear feel, like his work at Diesel?

The mystery surrounding his first show for Margiela, scheduled for Paris Fashion Week, remains. What is certain is that his appointment marks a turning point. His talent for deconstructing, revisiting, and reinterpreting clothes promises a new dynamic for the house.

Martens, who says he is "honored to join a house that has inspired the world for decades," knows he is expected to deliver. His arrival marks the beginning of a new chapter for Maison Margiela, where heritage and avant-garde will continue to intertwine brilliantly.