Dingyun Zhang's design studio in Shanghai, nestled above an industrial district, charms its visitors with a brutalist granite terrace brightened by lush vegetation. Inside, fashion workshops, textile labs and brainstorming spaces encourage creative collaboration, all punctuated by eclectic music. Zhang , famous for his avant-garde down jackets and several iconic YEEZY sneakers, shapes his creations there under the watchful eye of fashion experts.
A 2020 graduate of Central Saint Martins, Zhang presented an impressive thesis collection of futuristic outerwear inspired by China's harsh winters and snow sports. In 2022, it launched its first full line for fall 2023, adapting its bold silhouettes to consumer tastes. His brand quickly attracted a loyal following, supported by influential industry figures like Steven Smith , Jerry Lorenzo and Tremaine Emory , as well as celebrities such as Kim Kardashian , A$AP Ferg and Gigi Hadid . His designs, which often go viral on Instagram, include a mushroom-shaped waterproof vest and a perforated down jacket imitating a sea creature.
Returning to Shanghai in 2021 after stints in London and Los Angeles, Zhang spent two and a half years designing his dream studio. This hybrid space, combining workshop and laboratory, acts as a sophisticated system for his multidisciplinary creative process. “We make furniture while designing our next collection,” he explains, emphasizing the versatile nature of his work.
The world of Zhang , 28, is deeply rooted in his childhood memories. Born in New Mongol and raised in Beijing, he collected action figures, which influenced his current artistic style. Its helmet bag from the fall 2024 collection, inspired by the headgear of its toys, is a functional and fun accessory, transformable into a backpack or a tote. For Zhang , it is a “childhood artifact reinvented for an adult world.”
Zhang 's collaborations, like the one with Marni for fall 2023 and her sculptural outerwear capsule with Moncler Genius , have brought her childhood-inspired design concepts into mainstream fashion. Marni 's pieces, with their oversized sleeves and down padding, had a "superhuman" feel. When Justin Bieber wore one of the collection's quirky red coats to the NHL All-Star Game, he stood out with a lively and playful style. For Zhang , “My childhood memories are ingrained in my creative process and continue to inform my conversation about design. »
Zhang 's love for basketball is also a source of inspiration. As a child, he walked past posters of the 2008 U.S. Olympic basketball team in Beijing, developing a keen interest in iconic sneakers like Tracy McGrady's adidas T-Mac 5 . He would draw custom sports cards showcasing these shoes, dreaming of designing for sporting heroes.
For his Shanghai studio, Zhang envisioned a basketball court, requiring several rounds of sketches before construction. “Attention to detail is very important,” he says. This precision characterizes his work, as does his creative process which begins with abstract collages inspired by Robert Rauschenberg . Its fall 2024 collection, inspired by the Chinese civilization of Sanxingdui , reflects this interest in mysterious discoveries, transforming childhood memories into creations for an ancient and imaginary civilization.
The key to Zhang 's success lies in his ability to nurture his inner child. Her brand is a creative platform for her childhood dreams, an idea that seems impossible when faced with the realities of adulthood. “We create on the fringes of youth culture,” says Zhang. “Our audience finds comfort in the beauty of these margins. »
Written by Yeazzy.
